Vitrifrigo group purchase
Ordering and installation instructions, FAQ's
First, the FAQ's:
1) Does the fridge run on propane?
** No, this is a compressor fridge, it runs solely on electric power.
2) Will I need to modify my van or cabinet?
** Yes, this is detailed below...fairly minor.
3) What will I need to power the fridge?
** You can run it on the main battery for a few days or so, but I highly recommend a deep-cycle auxiliary battery be added. It also runs on 24 volt, 115 volt, and 230 volt current, and chooses the highest voltage source when multiple types are connected simultaneously, like 12 and 115.
4) How long can it run on a full battery?
** On average, the fridge will consume about 15-20 amp-hours daily on 12 volts. This will give about three to four days if you were to run the battery almost dead (not recommended!), more if you use a larger battery ( 80-100 amp-hour battery).
5) Can I bug you to help me install this?
** I'm willing to answer questions but this is a fairly straightforward installation.
6) What advantages are there of this unit over the original Dometic fridge of another 3-way fridge?
** It actually stays cold no matter the weather, has almost twice the usable interior space of the old Dometic, a real freezer that works (although small), and an interior light. It also will work anywhere in the world with it's quad-voltage capability. Vitrifrigo has been selling as an OEM supplier to the trucking and marine industry for years in the US and elsewhere, and have a good network or repair facilities around the country.
7) What is the price?
** $535 plus shipping (may be higher since early 2008)
8) Which unit is this again?
Ordering instruction:
Contact Andrew via email using this link : Andrew@CommercialProducts.net
Or, by phone: 941-756-7225
It is not necessary to speak to Andrew directly, you may just ask for 'sales' and state you'd like the C51iSAC model that everyone is buying for the VW campers and you'll be set!
Payment by credit card will be most easily arranged, they do not accept Paypal. I would guess a money order would also suffice, but ask.
State that you are in the group purchase arranged by Karl Mullendore, and give you name. He should have a list of everyone that has contacted me so far. If you are not on the list, you can still order, but keep in mind the pricing will most likely rise in the near future because of the continuing loss of value in the US dollar overseas.
If for some reason you do not need a fridge with 115-230 power option, you can buy the fridge at $479!
Installation instructions:
1) Remove the old fridge, disconnect the wires and propane line.
2) Disconnect and/or remove the propane line to the fridge at the regulator; insert a 3/8" NPT pipe plug where it was previously connected. It is not really necessary to remove the entire line but makes for a 'cleaner' installation.
3) Move the 115-volt outlet box beneath the sink from it's current location and relocate it to the back wall or other preferred spot. (the new fridge extends further into the cabinet and this box is in the way!)
4) Remove the old fridge door from the fascia panel along with it's hinges. Also remove the plastic 'T' trim around the opening.
5) Using a fine-tooth saw (a hacksaw will work well) cut the upper corners of the opening as pictured.
6) Using a box cutter / utility knife, cut out the wall-board at the rear of the fridge compartment to the same dimensions as the width and height of the box where the fridge sits.
7) Reinstall the modified fascia panel.
8) Screw or glue 14 1/2" sections of 2 x 4's vertically onto the floor of the fridge area, close to the fascia panel, as spaced in the picture. (note, you may need to add 1/4" to 1/2" shims in addition to raise the fridge completely to the top of the hole when installing)
9) Bring the fridge close to the opening and tuck the 115-volt power cord into the area of the outlet. Tuck the 12-volt wires atop the compressor.
10) Slide the fridge into place, being careful to check clearance around the compressor and power unit as enters the area you trimmed from the wallboard. If it looks good, level it up as needed and install with the 8 x 3/4 flat-head screws in the outside perimeter trim. You may need to add shims to the support blocks (see #8) to get the fridge to the top of the opening.
11) Retrieve and connect the 12-volt wires to your auxiliary battery with a 10-amp fused connection, or other preferred connection method. Plug in the 115-volt plug to the previously-moved outlet. If using a direct connection to the existing fridge 12-volt supply, use the two 1/4" disconnect terminals for the 12-volt wires ends, plugged into the original fridge wiring plug. Alternately, you could cut the mating plug from the old fridge and attach to the new fridge's wires. Also, if using this existing connection, you will need to effectively bypass the fridge relay beneath the driver's seat, by disconnecting the large wires on terminal 30 and 87 and connecting these together.
12) You should reinstall the old fridge exhaust vent on the body exterior, but use duck tape or other quality product to seal the hole before reinstalling.
13) Fabricate a panel of thin plywood or metal (or use a soffit grille like I have on mine temporarily) to cover the open space below the front of the fridge.
14) Turn it on and enjoy!
15) Questions? karl@westyventures.com
